Junya Watanabe - A Hustler?


The Bunka-trained Junya Watanabe of Comme des Garcons has often been associated with his use of modern and technical ’sculpture’ like designs. There are still utility workwear type designs and quirky tailoring on what Watanabe called 'dumb clothes' (e.g. trench coats, biker jackets or white shirts) in 2017 SS Menswear collection - under a major theme of ‘retro hustler.’ 1998's hustler, to be exact.




The ragtag bunch of models who make up the cast of each of Junya Watanabe’s shows are so deliberate they don’t only support the clothing physically but ideologically as well. Or at least, their impression and impressionists. The small-town big man was Watanabe’s jump-off point—gangsters, hustlers, general ne’er-do-wells. Boys from the wrong side of the tracks.


To view the runway show of Junya Watanabe 2017 SS Menswear, visit http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/junya-watanabe .


2017 SS Menswear is largely influenced by “Black Cat, White Cat” by Emir Kusturica. “Black Cat, White Cat” is a Serbian romantic comedy film evolving around gangsters. (You can watch the movie trailer here: http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi2662990105.) Sleeves and facial tattoos were seen on the runway topped off with homburg hats. Black boil wrinkled suits, embroidered souvenir jackets and several trousers with elasticized cuffs were adorned with either tattoo-like printed graphics or ‘Ptaki’ prints (Ptaki means bird in polish. Eastern European prisoners often get bird motif tattoos to symbolize their yearning for freedom.)  


One should take a moment before committing to a full sleeve or facial tattoos. While I’m pretty sure real facial tattoos aren’t the way to complete the look of Watanabe is suggesting here (not too sure about fake facial tattoos either), but there seems to be a focus on ’sleeves.’ Number of shirts come with floral print sleeves, Duvetica collaboration varsity jackets with padded sleeves and Levi’s collaboration shirts with elbow padded paisley sleeves. 


To view Junya Watanabe 2017 SS Menswear, visit https://www.kokko.me or  KOKKO Luxury Boutique at 4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond BC.