MA+ by Maurizio Amadei, the grandaddy of gothy, ‘dark aesthetics’ is to join Kokko’s list of designers from 2017AW. Think ‘Anti-Fashion,’ Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons and Guidi’s Arte Povera.
Before Tumblr and Instagram, there was Carpe Diem - niche avant garde fashion house by Maurizio Altieri founded in 1996. They were the monks of dark-toned avant garde aesthetics using heritage Italian leather. Carpe Diem sought to create ‘second layer of skin’ in an arte povera manner and influenced the Italian leather tannery, Guidi, to produce footwear from their factory.
Maurizio Amadei, a first generation Carpe Diem leather ‘monk’ under Altieri, formed his own brand MA+ after Carpe Diem’s closure. As a first generation Carpe Diem, you won’t find its official Facebook page or Vogue advertorial spread. While marketing tactics are kept to a bare minimum, Amadei pursues continuous study in harmony of human anatomy and clothes.
You won’t hear him making a specific cultural reference or a motif to title a collection (“I hate it when people ask me about my inspiration!” said Amadei in a past interview with Nabil Azadi) but rather, expect to see each collection experiment with possibilities in craft technique.
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a peak into 17w m.a+