Editorial: Non-Binary SS18
Androgyny is defined as “having characteristics or nature of both male and female” (Merriam-Webster, 2018.) and alternatively defines it as “neither specifically feminine nor masculine” characteristics. This presents an interesting point of contention: is androgyny, within the context of fashion, defined as containing aspects of both genders or rather not containing aspects of either? The answer to this comes down to an individual’s interpretation of what defines an object as masculine versus what defines an object as feminine.
With the growing trend of menswear silhouettes fashioned by women, it’s evident that the traditional method of differentiating menswear and womenswear by colour and shape are quickly being left behind. Vetements recent F/W 2018 show pays no attention to this traditional model as the models are all dressed alike.
The Pant Suit: The idea of a man’s suit being worn alternatively by a woman has a storied history. Initially coined by Yves Saint Laurent who revolutionized the fashion world by popularizing the “le smoking” suit. Since then, designers have been contributing their own interpretations, such as Christian Dada.
The T Shirt: The oversized T is another garment that transcends binary ideas of gender. Most recently, T’s have been used as layering pieces over hoodies and sweaters referencing a 90’s grunge aesthetic. Comfort aside, this creates a unisex silhouette that can be worn by both men and women. Vetements does a particularly great job of providing cuts that are generous enough to be worn with denim or alone as a dress.
The Military Boot: Combat boots never go out of style. They give an edge to the primmest of looks. Guidi’s interpretation is available for both men and women in a selection of different colours.
Part of the reason why many brand’s are changing their direction to a more gender-fluid style is because previously, the classic fashion model projected an image that was hyper-sexualized and gender oriented. This type of messaging was not only unrepresentative of generation Y and Z’s concept of self but moreover had negative impacts on mental health, and created negative body standards.
Binaries are gross because they force one to choose between two discerning options and leave no alternatives within. Life is all about the shades of grey that exist and the multiple perspectives that co-exist within the range of identity.
Styling: Amit Mohan